It's still a bit early for most of us to start our seeds indoors for things like tomatoes and peppers—but it's definitely not to early to start thinking about it. The following 10 tips will get you organized and ready for when the day finally comes and give you plenty of time to purchase any additional supplies you might need:

1. Sort your seeds - Gather up all your seed packets, old (this page from Fedco seeds gives you an estimate on how long different types of seed can last) and new. Sort them into two piles: those that will be started indoors, and those that will be sown directly outdoors. Within each pile, organize the packets based on what date they should be sown—you can find this information on the back of your seed packet.

Let's make that tip 1.5 - Read your seed packets! They have all the information you need about that seed's individual needs, including when and how deep to plant, if they require any special treatment like a presoak, or if they need light or certain temperature conditions to germinate.

2. Round up your supplies - Check how much soil you have. You want a good, fresh sterile potting soil for seed starting, ideally one without any fertilizers added. Get your mister, seed starting pots, labels, and dibber, and keep all your supplies together.

3. Be resourceful - Gardening and frugality practically go hand in hand (at least, at first—until the mania really sets in!), so anything that you don't already have, you don't necessarily need to  buy. Peat pots are nice because they can be planted directly in the garden without disturbing the roots, but they aren't necessary. Yogurt containers, deli tubs, and plastic take-out ware are all perfect seed-starting vessels when you add drainage holes. The key here is to be resourceful but reasonable: egg cartons and eggshells, however cute, aren't practical for growing seeds indoors over several weeks.

For the other seven tips, click below...

4. Use a dibber - A dibber (or dibble, or dibbler, or dibblet) is one of the most useful seed-starting tools you can have, but they haven't really caught on in America. They're basically just some kind of pointy stick that makes holes and maneuvers seeds and seedlings. You can get a fancy, specially made dibber (we showed this beautiful yew wood dibber in the March issue of Living), but there are tons of things around the house that work perfectly well, too. A chopstick, barbecue skewer, pencil, or short bamboo stake are all good candidates. If you haven't used one before, you'll be surprised how handy it is to have.

5. Moisten soil with hot water - Before you start, you'll want the soil thoroughly moistened. Since most potting soils contain a very high percentage of peat moss, they can be very difficult to wet. Dry peat moss is hydrophobic—it repels water, which is why you get that odd effect of a drop of water coated in tiny peat particles. The secret to wetting it is to use hot water. Empty your soil into a bucket or trough and add enough hot water (as hot as your tap will go) to make it moist to the touch. Avoid getting it dripping, soggy wet. Any leftover wet soil can be left to dry and used in your next batch of seed starting.

6. Label everything - You can find inexpensive wood or plastic labels at most garden centers. For each different type of seed you sow (and in each vessel), write out a label in pencil with the name of the plant and the variety. On the reverse side, write the date the seed was sown. As the seeds develop, continue keeping records on the back of the label by writing the date the seed germinated, the date you potted it up (if necessary), the date you began to harden it off, and the date it was planted in the garden. Or at least try to. This kind of record keeping is really helpful, though I can't pretend that I'm very religious about keeping up with it myself, no matter what my intentions were at the beginning of the season!

7. Provide bottom heat - Seedling heat mats exist for a reason - seeds germinate faster if they are warmed from beneath. It isn't imperative, but it will contribute to your seed-starting success. If you don't have a heat mat, you can try what I used to do: rig up little shelves out of 2-inch by 4-inch off-cuts and plywood over your heat registers or radiators and try to take advantage of the heat you already have.

8. Use lights - Now these are imperative. There simply isn't enough light in the residential environment to grow stocky, healthy seedlings. The good news, though, is that a run-of-the-mill, inexpensive fluorescent shop light is one of the best light sources you can use for seed starting. Hang it from chains so it can be raised as the seedlings grow, but position it closer than you might think. To have an effect on growth, the light should be just 2 to 3 inches above the tallest seedling.

9. Water gently - Once your seeds are planted, they must be watered in so they begin imbibing water, a crucial part of the germination process. A concentrated stream of water can wash seeds out of place or push them deep into the soil, so seek a gentler alternative. Several spritzes from a spray bottle can work really well for this.

10. If at first you don't succeed, try, try again - Really. Seeds are living organisms, and there are all kinds of reasons they might not do well. Don't beat yourself up about it. If something fails, think carefully about what might have gone wrong, then try again. Most seed packets contain hundreds of seeds, each one representing another chance at success.

Have a seed-starting tip of your own or a question about the process? Please share it with us in the comments. Happy seed starting!